Stonemountain Spotlight: Yarn-Dyed Cottons

About the Stonemountain Spotlight

For each Spotlight we choose a specific pattern, fabric, or sewing technique, and invite the Stonemountain & Daughter staff to each make their own version. We love seeing how everyone interprets the project, adding their own unique style, and we love sharing what everyone has made. All of the garment patterns we used in the Spotlight are for sale at the shop and on our website, so you can join us and sew one of your own! If you’re local, stop by the shop and see all of our Stonemountain Spotlight garments on display through the month of May.

About yarn-dyed cottons

Yarn-dyed fabrics are woven with colored yarns, resulting in gorgeous color combinations, textures, and patterns. A few examples of yarn-dyed fabrics are shot cotton, ikat, clip dot, and gingham. We love yarn-dyed cottons because they are easy to sew, wear, and care for, and are a wonderful way to add a little (or a lot of) color, pattern, and texture into our handmade garments!

Our garment pattern selections

Another goal of this Spotlight was to highlight our amazing collection of garment sewing patterns. Stonemountain & Daughter carries exclusively independently-published patterns. When you purchase a garment pattern from us, you are in turn supporting independent pattern designers from the US and around the world—sewists and makers, just like us! The seven patterns we selected for this Spotlight are some of our favorites—garments that we’ve made before (sometimes in multiples!), perfect for spring and summer, and especially wonderful paired with yarn-dyed cottons! Here are the patterns we selected for the Spotlight:

Tops

Jenna Shirt & Shirtdress – Closet Core
Donny Shirt – Friday Pattern Company
Shirt No. 1 – 100 Acts of Sewing

Dresses & Skirts

Wren Blouse and Dress – Chalk & Notch
Ivie Dress, Top, & Skirt – Chalk & Notch

Pants

Free Range Slacks – Sew House Seven
Flaneur Pants – Friday Pattern Company
Pants No. 1 – 100 Acts of Sewing

Jenna Shirt & Shirtdress – Closet Core

The Jenna Shirt was a favorite pattern in our Button-Up Shirts and Beyond Button-Ups Spotlights from last year. With two shirt lengths and a shirtdress option, this menswear-inspired pattern is so versatile and fun to sew!

Addie’s Jenna Shirt features Fableism – Monarch Grove Wovens – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Skinny Stripe – Foxglove

“As soon as this fabric came into the shop I knew I wanted to make something with it because the fabric feels so nice and the colors fit my color palette. I wanted to play with the directions of the stripes for the design details. It’s a perfect shirting weight: lightweight but not transparent, easy to press and sew. 

I paid special attention to the layout before I cut out the pieces so I could match certain style lines with the stripes on the fabric. I cut out all the smaller pieces on the crossgrain for visual interest. Since the sizing is generous for this design, I sized down one from the size indicated by my measurements and it’s just right. I often need to shorten sleeves, so I shortened the sleeve piece by two inches. I’m happy with it but next time I’d probably add back an inch. I found the cropped body length a tiny bit shorter than I expected, so I finished the hem with bias tape to preserve as much length as possible. I think I’d add an inch or so to the front and back pieces next time.

I finished the shirt with vintage buttons (c. 1983) from my stash. I used a bone folder from some bookbinding I did in the past to push out the corners of my collar and cuffs. There was a section of the collar instructions that seemed fiddly and slightly unclear to me, so I used some photos and instructions from the Oliver & S. blog’s sewalong for the Liesl & Co. Classic Shirt instead. Although their method was similar, it worked better for me.

It came out exactly as I had envisioned it, which is satisfying. I’ll wear this shirt in a few ways: with linen pants to go to lunch with a friend, everyday with jeans and sneakers, and in the summer open over a tank with a skirt.”

 Donny Shirt – Friday Pattern Company

A shop favorite since its debut! The Donny Shirt is a simple sewing project with lots of room for customization. The Donny is wonderful in cotton, and we have seen it made up beautifully in fabrics like wool crepe, silk, and linen, too.

Hulda’s Donny Shirt features Fableism – Lucky Loom – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Skinny Stripe – Clover

“This was not my first Donny rodeo, so it was easy! I love the color—not my usual lurid orange—and the rainbow stripes. 

My shirt was looking like just another Donny. I’ve made a few, and I think of them as my ‘other t-shirts.’ Last fall, I made a couple of quilt squares in Sondra Van Burg’s For the Birds workshop, and I didn’t know what to do with them. A gift for someone? A pillow? Actually make a quilt? No way! Then I had an “aha” moment: the chickens might be just the thing to zhuzh up the Donny pockets.

Everybody should make a Donny. No zippers, no buttons, and a wild burrito roll ride for the daring beginner.”

Caspian’s Donny Shirt features Fableism – Lucky Loom – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Skinny Stripe – Luna

“When the Donny Shirt was released, my fellow staff members said I would love the pattern and they were completely correct! This is exactly the type of easy-breezy shirt I wear in the summer. I will definitely be wearing it at least once a week to work! I’ve been in a blue mood, so this fabric fits perfectly with other recent sewing projects. 

I tried to hack this pattern to have a sailor collar, but it totally failed! I looked at a few different sailor collar patterns and just assumed I could extend the existing collar on the Donny Shirt. Nope! It did not lay right at all, and I had to do some surgery and hand sewing to get the collar to its original length. I will have to try a sailor collar again when I don’t have a deadline.

I kept it super simple this time, and didn’t even use interfacing or do any pattern matching. I really loved working with this fabric! It was super easy to sew and has a nice feel and a great casual look. I love fabrics that aren’t too drapey for hot weather, as they sit away from the body—this fabric fits the bill!”

Vicki’s Donny Shirt features Textured Yarn Dyed Cotton – Seed Stitch Stripes – Blush

“The fabric is both pliant and it stays in place, so it’s nice to sew with. The stripes are subtle, and it is a good weight for the pattern.

I did a full bust adjustment and regular fitting for asymmetric shoulders. I added a center seam to the yoke so that I could cut it on the bias and create a chevron at the seam. 

Since there is a center front seam, I cut the two fronts out in the reverse direction, resulting in the stripe pattern having mirror symmetry at the center front seam. I did the same with the sleeves.

It is a more boxy fit than I usually wear, but I like it! I’ll wear it with pants and maybe a sweater, depending on the weather. It’s perfect for work, school, and everyday activities. I’ve wanted to make this pattern for quite a while and am really happy I did!”

Franny’s Donny Shirt features Fableism – Golden Hour – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Native Nectar – Eggplant

“The fabric has just enough heft to be very stable while still wearable. It was easy to cut out the pattern and sew the lapel facing. 

I added bust darts and took a couple inches off the length of the shirt and sleeves. I wanted to give the shirt a little more shape with the darts, since the fabric isn’t very drapey. I made changes to the length because I’m so short, and shortened the sleeves to make it easier to wear with a cardigan. I removed the pocket because I wanted to let the fabric shine on its own. I used Presto Sheer fusible interfacing, and I bound the seams with some bias tape I made from cotton lawn. 

This shirt is on the fringes of my usual style—it’s not a color I usually wear. I hope to pair it with tailored trousers and long skirts.”

Wren Blouse and Dress – Chalk & Notch

The Wren Blouse brings a bit of variety to our collection of button-up shirt patterns! The scoop neck and sleeve shaping give this shirt a softer style, which you can play up with your choice of fabric, pattern, and color.

Suzan’s Wren Blouse features Textured Yarn Dyed Cotton – Squares – Stone

“I love everything about this fabric! The color, texture, and quality speaks to easy and long-term wearing with many different looks! It’s so wonderful to see the high quality of textured yarn-dyes available to us all—they are great to wear and make into home accessories. 

I started with the pattern first and then went looking for fabric with a scale and color that would feel fun to wear and really work with the design. I was so drawn to this fabric—I always love yarn-dyed pieces for their depth and texture—and this one just feels like it will work with so much of what I already have. Square corozo buttons were the perfect match for this fabric!

The Wren Blouse is such an easy, wearable shape, and also a great pattern for showing off a beautiful fabric. Kim and I both made a small tweak to soften the sleeve a bit so it feels less frilly and more like something I’ll reach for every day. That’s always what I’m drawn to—pieces that fit right into real life. I can already see myself wearing this with my favorite jeans or easy summer pants, and then layering it as the weather shifts.

And thank you Kim for making one for you and one for me—it’s always more fun to do this together!”

Kim’s Wren Blouse features Shot Cotton – Kaffe Fassett Collective – Broad Stripe – Blue

“This was only my second time using yarn-dyed fabric—it was easy to sew and washes up beautifully. I love wearing cotton blouses during the summer and this will be perfect.” Kim found a Wren Blouse sew-along on the Chalk and Notch website with extra instructions that helped her sew the neck facing perfectly. We love Kim’s fabric choice—the color is so great on her!

Ivie Dress, Top, & Skirt – Chalk & Notch

We love a pattern that includes lots of options! The Ivie Dress, Top, & Skirt has so much to offer—sew any of its elements alone, or create a little summer capsule wardrobe of coordinating pieces.

Gillian’s Ivie Skirt features Shot Cotton – Kaffe Fassett Collective – Narrow Stripe – Wine

“I made the Ivie Skirt, and my only modification was to widen the waistband so that I could use 1.5 inch elastic. I prefer a wide elastic waistband, I find that it helps the skirt stay in place throughout the day better. 

I hadn’t made a tiered skirt like this before, and I was a little nervous about making sure that the gathers were even. I took some extra time to adjust the gathers and make sure that they were sitting well before I sewed the two tiers together, and I’m pleased with how it turned out! 

This fabric is lightweight and easy to work with. The colors in this fabric are beautiful—they’re a little warmer and bolder than what I usually wear, but I think the skirt will add a lovely pop of color to my wardrobe! I really like how it looks with a plain white t-shirt, but I also plan to experiment with pairing it with more colorful tops. Since the stripes include so many beautiful colors, I have a lot of options for choosing shirts that will coordinate! I think it would also look good with a short-sleeved button-up shirt or a linen Shirt No.1. The wide lower tier gives me enough freedom of movement to wear this skirt to work, or just for walking around. I’m imagining that I will wear it for lots of upcoming summer adventures!”  

Annie’s Ivie Skirt and Top set feature New York Designer Deadstock – Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting – Gingham – Navy

“I like that the fabric is lightweight but not see-through, and that it gathers nicely without feeling bulky. 

For the top, I removed the center front seam, drawstring and elastic casings finishes, replacing them with foldover hems and stitched-down elastic. I preferred the more defined gathering created by stitched-down elastic compared to the softer effect of a casing. I used a zig-zag stitch to attach the elastic to the top, allowing the seams to stretch without breaking.

For the skirt, I changed the elastic waistband to a 2-piece contour waistband because I thought I would prefer the fit. That meant I needed to add a center back seam and zipper to the skirt so I could get it on and off and keep the side seam pockets. I used a serger on the skirt for a clean interior finish. It was hard for me to find the notches on my skirt panels after the panels were gathered. I resolved this by marking each notch with a pin an inch or so below. 

These pieces are a tad more prairie wear than my normal style, but clothes are fun and I like lots of different kinds. I will probably wear them more as separates—the top with jean shorts and the skirt with a black cropped tank or a band tee.” 

 Shirt No. 1 – 100 Acts of Sewing

Shirt No. 1 is our go-to, first garment-sewing project! If you’re new to sewing, making this garment is a great way to build some skills and get used to reading a sewing pattern. If you’re a more advanced sewist, it’s a wonderful opportunity to experiment with pattern hacking.

Olivia’s Shirt No. 1 features Organic Cotton Double Gauze – Yarn Dyed Gingham – Natural/Fawn and Organic Cotton Double Gauze – Yarn Dyed Gingham – Fawn/Espresso

“I love so many things about this fabric. The first thing that drew me to it was the colors of the gingham—I really love the combination of muted “natural” colors. I am drawn to fabrics that are in this palette, and much of my wardrobe includes these colors. Since this collection of gingham double gauzes coordinate with one another, I thought it would be the perfect opportunity to combine them. The double gauze is SO comfortable to wear, especially in this loose-fitting design. It has ample give, so I never feel constricted, and it is quite breathable. It’s been a long time since I made something in double gauze, and this project reminded me how awesome it is.

I shortened the top by 4 inches, as I prefer a more cropped length. Next, I marked where the top hits me at my waist, adding a ruffle below my waist. I added a seam at center front and back so that I could color block the top. I also topstitched the center seams down on either side so that they would lay flat.

The pattern has you finish the neckline with bias tape. Before topstitching the bias tape along the neckline, I understitched the bias tape to the seam allowance—this was not part of the instructions. This technique ensures that the bias tape does not peek out above the neckline, which I think results in a cleaner finish.

I made a couple of test versions before sewing up my final garment, and it took me a few tries to get the placement right for the ruffle. The first time I made the top with the ruffle, it fell on my bust, not my waist—SO uncomfortable! For the second try, the ruffle was still way too high and had more of a babydoll top vibe—not what I was going for. Not sure how that happened, but that’s what test versions are for! Sewing up the final garment went pretty smoothly, as I already worked out my issues in previous versions. 

This top is definitely my style, and I see myself wearing it for years to come! I think I will mostly wear it with jeans as a more casual look.” 

Kristen’s Shirt No. 1 features Fableism – Checkmate Checkers – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Checkers – Phoenix

“I love the checks on checks pattern—checks are really in style right now. Plus, the fabric is so soft! I have been trying to embrace more whimsy this year, and Shirt No. 1 is a perfect canvas for embellishment! I made my own bias tape using the Clover quarter-inch bias tape maker and then just went crazy until it looked like enough. I machine-stitched the bias tape down after the shirt pieces were cut, but before assembly. And then it still needed more, so I added additional bias tape by hand-stitching it on.

The Fableism chambray is a little bit plush, which feels lovely but didn’t play very nicely with the bias tape maker. It worked in the end, but I had to go very slowly and use lots of pressing. I also joined the bias pieces after putting them through the pressing process instead of before. For someone new to making and applying bias tape, the ½-inch bias tape maker would be easier. 

This is a little more playful than I usually go for, and a little bit more cropped. I’ll wear it with pants, jeans, or skirts that have a slightly higher rise, and I love it layered under a jacket like the Merchant and Mills Ottoline. It’s perfect to wear to work! A little bit of whimsy layered with some classic pieces really makes it shine.”

Amy’s Shirt No. 1 dress features Fableism – Arcade Plaid Woven – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Midnight

“This is a nice weight of cotton—opaque but not too heavy, with a smooth hand. The colors are a bit nostalgic, a bit modern.

I lengthened the pattern into an a-line dress with patch pockets. I also narrowed the neck opening. The facings and hems were turned by hand with a hem stitch. The pockets were applied by hand so I could match up the plaids carefully. This was an easy sew—cut out and the seams put together in less than two hours, with cats ‘helping.’

This dress is on the edge of my usual style. I plan to wear it as a cover-up at the beach or pool this summer. I’m never making anything without pockets again!”

Jenny’s Shirt No. 1 dress features Fableism – Golden Hour – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Deco Stripe – Umber

“I loved the fabric’s vintage design and colorway. It reminded me of guayabera shirts, summer parties, and humid vacations. 

I was inspired by Sonya Philip‘s book The Act of Sewing, which details how to modify and combine her patterns. I highly recommend her book if you are interested in making design or fit modifications to your patterns. For my dress, I added a gathered skirt to her Shirt No. 1 pattern. I also turned my fabric 90 degrees for a contrasting yoke. Because I chose a large, high-contrast patterned woven fabric, I needed to slow down while pinning to pattern match. 

I love little pops of color, so I made mauve bias tape using our bias tape maker for a super-wide mauve hem inside my dress. I am looking forward to wearing it with a sun hat and a neck scarf on vacation this summer.”

Ruby’s Shirt No. 1 features LA Designer Deadstock – Yarn Dyed Cotton Shirting – Small Check – Red/White

“I love a crisp shirting! I shortened the sleeve as drafted and added a band to the edge. I cropped the shirt, too. I like the added weight of a sleeve band, it shapes the sleeve and adds some structure. I altered the sleeves, which I think could work, but it doesn’t fit like I intended—I should have added extra width to the sleeve opening, widening it to have more ease.

I wouldn’t say this garment is my usual style—I love the fabric, but I can’t really make the top work with my wardrobe. It was a very enlightening sew, but I’m not sure if I’ll make it again or wear what I made. I think the pattern is a great basic and can be used as a starting place to edit or alter design components, I just don’t think mine were all the way successful this time. That’s ok—that’s part of sewing & learning!”

Shirt No. 1 and Pants No. 1 – 100 Acts of Sewing

We love a matched set, and we love that beginner-friendly patterns like Shirt No. 1 and Pants No. 1 make that a possibility for sewists of all skill levels!

Priya’s Shirt No. 1 and Pants No. 1 shorts set features Organic Cotton Double Gauze – Yarn Dyed Gingham – Dark Brown

Priya liked the fabric’s muted colors and soft texture, and thought double-gauze would make the perfect summertime pajama set. They made a button-up version of Shirt No. 1, and used the Pants No. 1 pattern to make a matching pair of shorts. We love that a matching set like this can function as pajamas, loungewear, or even as a casual outfit to wear out and about.

Rebecca’s Shirt No. 1 and Pants No. 1 shorts set features Fableism – Checkmate Checkers – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Checkers – Ebony

“I love the double-check on this fabric. I found that the fabric was a bit too heavy, but it worked out anyway. Sonya Phillips of 100 Acts of Sewing has some great tutorials on her website—I used them to help me hack the Shirt No. 1 into a button-up. I also added pockets to the shorts I made using the Pants No. 1 pattern. I wanted a higher rise on my shorts, so I also did a waist adjustment.

I don’t know if this set is my usual style, but a comfortable pair of shorts and a button-up shirt will work well for me during the warm months ahead. The neckline is a bit lower than I like, but this top looks great over a t-shirt. I’ll definitely wear this set to work and on vacation.”

Flaneur Pants – Friday Pattern Company

With a zipper fly and a half-elasticized waistband, the Flaneur Pants are a perfect project to try once you’ve mastered elastic-waist pants but aren’t quite ready to tackle fitted pants.

Jen’s Flaneur Pants feature Fableism – Queen of Hearts – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Gingham Hearts – Blueberry

“I love how soft this fabric is, and that it gets even softer and a bit more crinkly after washing it. I also love how the hearts add a playful/unexpected touch to the gingham, but they are so subtle you may not even notice them. The blue tones are great because I wear denim on a daily basis, and this gives me that denim feel but in a lighter, more summer-weight fabrication.  

I have never made a true pair of pants for myself before, only overalls! I was very intimidated by the concept of fitting them to my body. I’d say this is an excellent pattern to try if you haven’t made pants before. They have no side seams, making them great for working with patterned fabric. They are simpler to fit, since they do not have a side seam, only an inseam. They do have a dart on the sides of the legs where they connect to the waistband, so you can use that to make some fit adjustments (don’t forget to adjust the waistband if you do that!).  

I used the Sewline Water Soluble Fabric Glue Pen to baste the pockets on and the waistband down stitching—it kept everything in place. It is a pet peeve of mine when I carefully stitch down a waistband from the right side and then discover I missed some of the seam allowance. The glue pen bonds quickly, doesn’t gum up my needle, and washes away.”

Yanhan’s Flaneur Pants feature Yarn Dyed Cotton – Check Mates – Bold Checks – Desert

“The fabric is lightweight, easy to work with, and great for the summer. I suggest sizing down the pattern for better fit. Make a muslin if you have time—I didn’t, so the size was a little bit larger around the waist. I have short legs, so I went back and fixed the length at the end.

These pants are my style—I love pink! I think I would wear them for a cute sunset walk at the beach or a picnic.”

Karen’s Flaneur Pants feature Fableism – Lucky Loom – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Stitch Stripe – Sage

“I really enjoyed the woven textures in the fabric and the way it washed up very soft, yet still had great body for pants. I also found it very forgiving that the fabric doesn’t really have a wrong side—I didn’t have to worry as much about cutting a pattern piece wrong.

I increased the rise of the pants by a couple of inches. While the mid-rise of the pattern would still work for me, I prefer my pants with a higher waist. When I increased the rise, I forgot to lengthen the pieces for the zipper fly. Luckily, I had enough leftover fabric that I could just re-cut those pieces to the proper length. I also combined two different sizes to better suit my body, making sure to do a mock-up/toile for sizing. 

This pattern calls for finishing most seams by overlocking or doing a zig-zag stitch. I don’t have a serger but I still wanted that overlocked look, so I learned how to use the overlock foot and stitch on my sewing machine. 

These pants will be great for summer as they are super light and breezy while still having some nice structure. I will probably style them with crop tops, t-shirts, and tank tops.” 

Noelle’s Flaneur Pants feature Essex – Linen/Cotton – Yarn Dyed Classic Wovens – Stripe – Licorice

“I like that Essex combines the texture and drape of linen with the crispness and ease of cotton.

I added about 3” to the rise to bring it to my preferred high-waist fit. This meant I also had to add the same length to the fly pieces and zipper. My measurements were between sizes, so I opted for cutting the larger size out of my fabric, but the smaller size of the back elastic. I also cut the pocket pieces cross-grain to make them stand out a little more. 

I went with a heavy-duty snap rather than a button for the waist, and added rivets to the pockets to bring the hardware throughout the pant. In adding to the rise, the side pocket ended up being a little too low for me, but I had already topstitched and riveted them in before I noticed. Next time I’ll move the side pockets up a couple inches!

I’ve been branching out into wide-leg pants more recently, so I’ll definitely be wearing these as it heats up! With all the pockets and how comfortable they are, these will definitely become a staple in my work and casual outfits.”

Free Range Slacks – Sew House Seven

The Free Range Slacks feature a few more details and skills than Pants No. 1, but are still easy, beginner-friendly, and highly customizable—a wonderful next-step pattern.

Sofia’s Free Range Slacks feature Textured Yarn Dyed Cotton – Small Stripes – Charcoal/Tan

“I love the fabric’s natural colors and skinny stripes! Topstitching the pocket down was tricky, but I just felt the edges and moved slowly.  

These pants are definitely my style—I love comfortable and baggy clothing. I plan to wear them to the beach this summer for sure!” 

Leah’s Free Range Slacks and matching top feature Fableism – Monarch Grove Wovens – Yarn Dyed Cotton – Native Nectar – Adonis

“I really like the surprising color choices for the threads and the reversibility of the fabric. I decided to use the scraps from the original three-yard piece of fabric to make a matching Made By Rae Ruby Top. Originally I was going to make it reversible, but then things got a little out of control with the armscye, so I finished it one-sided with the reverse print on the outside—I love it!

Starting just after the notches below the pockets, I graded out the side panel of the pants by 2 inches, creating a wider leg. I also took 2 inches out of the rise and added 3 inches to the leg length. The last time I made these pants, I used a safety pin to work the elastic through the waist channel. I’ve since purchased a bodkin and wow, it was so much easier to get the elastic through!

I love this pattern and have made quite a few pairs of these pants. I’ll wear the pants as everyday pants on warmer days with tee shirts, etc. I really love them as a set, and I think it makes the outfit a bit more formal. This was a really fun make. I love the new wide-leg adjustment and have already made a version with some very lightweight denim!”

Sew Inspiring

A huge thank you to the Stonemountain & Daughter staff for participating in the Spotlight, sewing some amazing garments, and sharing their thoughts about their creations! Have you made a garment with yarn-dyed cotton that you’re especially proud of? We’d love to see it! Email us info@stonemountainfabric.com or tag us #stonemountainfabric on Instagram to share!