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Group photo of Stonemountain & Daughter Staff wearing handmade garments using Robert Kaufman twills

About the Stonemountain Spotlight

 

For each Spotlight we choose a specific pattern, fabric, or sewing technique, and invite the Stonemountain & Daughter staff to each make their own version. We love seeing how everyone interprets the project, adding their own unique style, and we love sharing what everyone has made. This month we invited our participants to select their favorite Robert Kaufman cotton twill fabric and a pattern from the shop to make a garment of their choice. We were absolutely blown away by the staff’s creativity, and we’re so excited to share our projects with you!

A bit of history

 

Why cotton twills? We chose these fabrics for the Spotlight because they are easy to sew, wear, and care for, are suitable for all seasons, and come in a rainbow of fashion colors. Plus, it’s a great opportunity to see how these different fabric weights take shape as real-life garments!

These cotton twills come to us from another family fabric business, Robert Kaufman Fabrics. The owners of Stonemountain & Daughter have known the owners of Robert Kaufman Fabrics since the 1950s! Based in Los Angeles, today Robert Kaufman Fabrics is our #1 fabric resource—from quilting cottons to apparel fabrics, we love knowing that when we buy from Robert Kaufman, we are getting high quality fabrics that are perfect for everyday garments and home decor items. We also love that so many of their fabrics are reorderable, so we can continue stocking these staple fabrics for you season after season.
three twills

Fineline Cotton Twill

Fineline Cotton Twill is the lightest of the three at 4.9oz per square yard / 166 GSM. This finely-woven twill is mostly opaque with a nice sheen. It’s a great choice for tops, dresses, and lightweight pants—because it’s similar to a shirting weight, Fineline Cotton Twill is our go-to for a classic button-up shirt.
fineline_group
“Fineline twill has a crisp, smooth feel; it’s easy to work with and easy to care for. I was a little short on fabric, so I didn’t cut the full sleeve and cuff. Instead I turned a narrow elastic cuff to finish my sleeve. I used a Nara Homespun for a contrast fabric on the bodice and skirt yokes. I like retro styles and this will be a nice dress when the spring weather warms up a little. The pockets make it nice for working in the store. I’ll probably wear it with all kinds of me-made jewelry 🙂 I wasn’t paying close attention when I started sewing and realized later that I had turned the “right” side of the twill to the inside of the garment! It doesn’t seem to hurt the finished product, as the “wrong” side has a smooth hand as well.”
 
Twill Spotlight_Amy
“Fineline twill is wonderfully lightweight, while still having excellent body. It was also a dream to work with. I used the Ashling pattern by Papercut. I decided to extend the shirt length to turn it into a shirt dress, and added patch pockets. I wanted to add something a little extra, so I decided to use some velvet ribbon to trim cuffs, collar, and pocket edge. I’m so excited to wear it! The ruffle collar and cuffs combined with this fabric adds the perfect amount of gothic whimsy to my wardrobe.”  
 
Twill Spotlight_Ashlee
“I like that the Fineline twills are crisp with some body like a traditional shirting, but have a different finish because of the twill weave. It was super easy to sew and I used Flatter to get an extra-crisp press. I shortened the Oversized Shirt pattern by 3 inches, omitted the side seam pockets, and added side seam slits so I could partially tuck the shirt. I used tailor’s tacks for the first time for this project! I didn’t want to use chalk or marker to stain my white fabric, but I had a lot of buttonholes to mark. The tailor’s tacks worked perfectly and I’ll definitely be using them again in the future. I’m planning on doing a lot of layering and wearing this shirt with fun vests! I wanted to add a touch of playfulness to an otherwise pretty severe garment, so I used a chartreuse thread to sew my buttonholes and buttons.”
 
 
Twill Spotlight_Caroline
“I love tunics and have been looking for a woven tunic pattern that I like enough to make multiples of, and I think that the Lottie by Christine Haynes is the winner! I made the tunic view and shortened it by about 3.5 inches. I think it will look good with both wide leg and tapered pants, and maybe even a slim-fitting knit skirt. This tunic is also very practical both for work and running errands because of the big pockets, which are perfect for stashing keys, etc. Fineline Twill has a nice drape and sheen, and is very easy to work with!”
Twill Spotlight_Gillian

Kim made The Assembly Line Cuff Top in Fineline – Cotton Twill – Banana
“I love how beautifully the Fineline Twill looks when your project is finished. I chose a size medium and lengthend the pattern by 2 inches. It sews like a dream and irons really well. I used 1″ wide non roll elastic for my sleeves. This shirt is my style, for the most part—I wear jeans a lot and this is just perfect with them. I will be making more.”

Twill Spotlight_Kim
“I inherited a favorite tie from my dad’s collection and wanted to make a button-up shirt to wear it with. The Ellsworth combines the classic elements of a button-up shirt with design elements that make it feel less buttoned-up and traditional. I like that Fineline twill has saturated color, a nice, crisp drape, and that it is lightweight but opaque. I am usually a 16 in Merchant & Mills patterns but sized down to a 12 because this shirt is extremely boxy—at the smaller size I still had 10+ inches of ease. I made a mistake in pairing this pattern with the fabric: the pattern requires fabric of a minimum of 48 inches width for sizes 6 to 12, but this fabric is only 45 inches wide—whoops! I shortened the arms by two inches so the pattern pieces would fit the fabric. The arms were drafted slightly too narrow for my arms, so I added enough width to fit comfortably. The pattern instructions are not especially detailed—I found the front placket especially challenging, but managed to find a helpful tutorial online (I also added a decorative tab to hide my mistakes). I really liked that the pattern was designed with French seams for a clean finish. After noticing that regular pins were leaving holes in the fabric, I switched to silk pins midway through the project—much better! I finished the shirt with orange vintage buttons from the button wall. This shirt isn’t exactly my style but is an extension of things I enjoy wearing—it’s going to be a fun statement piece!”
Twill Spotlight_Marissa
“Fineline is such a high-quality basic cotton fabric! It’s beautiful to wash and iron and will last for a long time. Great colors that will look good in so many garments—tops, pants, accessories, and more. I made a size medium and we took it in a smidge and set the hem length to hit right at my hips – about 2 inches longer than the pattern. It was fun to add in a Lady McElroy cotton lawn print for the facing around the neckline, and I chose a 3/4″ wide non-roll elastic for the arms. There are so many Assembly Line patterns that will look great in this Fineline twill—just the right amount of body without being too stiff. I’m loving the sleeves on this top and look forward to making this fun shirt again! Next time I think I will try a print to wear with all my solid bottoms. The neckline is very flattering and I love that there are no closures to worry about. It was so fun to see all the other makes out of the Fineline twill and how well it made up into every outfit. So glad it comes in a great color range and is at an affordable price point.”
Twill Spotlight_Suzan

Kobe Cotton Twill

At 6oz per square yard / 203 GSM, Kobe Cotton Twill is a wonderful choice for lightweight pants, jackets, dresses, home dec, and for accessories like bags and pouches.
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Alex extended the pattern by 2 inches for longer legs. While she liked that the Kobe Twill was soft and easy to work with, she isn’t sold on the final garment: “I’m not sure how I feel about it and am not sure how to style it. I will probably wear it for hiking.”
Twill Spotlight_Alex
“Kobe Twill was very easy to work with, and stable—it has a lot of flexibility and a needle goes through beautifully, even with multiple layers. I made the jacket view and modified it by making a hidden placket for my buttonholes and adding a loop for hanging. I also made fitting adjustments, as always! I made size 16 blended with size 18 below the bust. Because the style is quite oversized and boxy I didn’t bother to make a full bust adjustment, which I usually do. I tissue-fitted the pattern but the center front rides up—so I love the style, but when I make it again I will add to the front length to even how it hangs. I quilted the fabric—this was the first time I have machine quilted, so I’m super pleased with how that turned out. I really gave my walking foot a workout! I used 100% wool batting and backed with a very light cotton from my stash, probably a voile. It is also my first fully lined project—I did need to modify the lining pattern because I was using a lining fabric with a directional pattern. The Sanda is very much something I will wear. Since this is outerwear I will wear it as a midweight, multi-season jacket—I generally wear jackets with scarves and may add a brooch if I’m really feeling sassy.”
Twill Spotlight_Diana
“To me, Kobe is the happy medium of twills. It’s not too stiff but not too soft, which makes it very versatile. I think it would be great for pants, especially more casual or baggy styles. As a vest it is structured without being bulky. Very easy to sew. I took 1 inch out of the height of the vest and drafted cargo pockets based on an Issey Miyake x Vogue pants pattern I have made previously. I did not use any of the provided pocket designs. This is not my usual style but in 2024 I am trying to be a Layers Person, so this was a good introductory foray into vests. The color is not one I currently wear a lot of, but I feel like it will complement the rest of my wardrobe (which is mostly orange) well. Before I added the pockets I was really concerned about this project—something about the color & shape of the vest without the “utility” vibe the pockets add made me look like a corporate retail chain employee, which is definitively NOT swag. The many pockets make this vest ideal for adventures such as hiking, camping, bar-hopping, and running errands, because you can fit a lot of snacks in them, as demonstrated in the photos. Great if you are the mom-friend or just get hungry a lot. If I make this pattern again, I will line it with some kind of wool or thermal lining so that it can function more as outerwear. As it is, it doesn’t provide any warmth so is more a fashion statement than workwear.”
Twill Spotlight_Keyana
Molly made the Papercut Estella and a self-drafted skirt in Kobe – Cotton Twill – Burgundy.
“I like that Kobe Twill has a nice drape, but still retains some structure. It also has a subtle sheen, which makes the fabric a little more dressy. I started with the Estella Dress pattern. I shortened the sleeves and changed the skirt from a rectangle to a 3/4 circle, then added a little ruffle edge along the bottom of the skirt to mimic the gathers on the sleeves. I wear a lot of dresses, but because of the fabric I chose, this one leans more formal. I chalk that up to the structure and sheen of Kobe, so it’s easy to dress up for something more formal, but it’s also something I would absolutely wear on a regular day.”
Twill Spotlight_Molly
Priya liked that the Kobe Twill drapes nicely. They used the Pants No. 1 pattern with a few adjustments: they lengthened the pants and made them higher-waisted; they also added pockets: “I based the back pocket design on the technique that’s used to make the Lander Pant pockets.” These pants are Priya’s style, and fit their casual, everyday wardrobe perfectly. You’ll find Priya wearing these pants to work, at home, and out and about running errands.
Twill Spotlight_Priya
“I made the Almost Long Trousers. I had some trouble with their elastic waistband method—I ended up going a different route by making a casing and feeding the elastic through. I also had to shorten the legs a bit. I actually made a test pair before cutting into my project fabric and I’m so glad I did! I ended up needing to size down. I usually have the worst luck with sewing pants that actually fit, and making a muslin really helped. The Kobe was easy to work with—it wasn’t too light or too heavy for the pants I made, It’s a nice in-between. This garment is not my usual style—I’ve never worn green pants before, but I really like them and I think I can probably wear them with anything!”
Twill Spotlight_Rebecca
“The Kobe Twill sewed up easily and beautifully—it had a very buttery way of handling with the needle. It has the perfect amount of structure for what I made, while not being stiff at all. I used the Merchant & Mills September coat pattern pretty heavily modified. As per instructions on the M&M blog for a shortened version, I cut down the length to hit at my upper hip for a cropped look. I used different pocket pieces (from a Pauline Alice jacket pattern) to give me more functionality and hit the mark of the look I was after. I straightened the collar corners (they are drafted rounded). I eliminated the button band and installed a full length zipper instead. And, for maximum Coach’s Jacket impact, I included thin bungee cording in the bottom hem with cinching toggles at the side seams. The back half of the sleeve hems also have bungee cording to keep them from gaping open. I sewed the lining with silk charmeuse which was fun and feels incredible to wear. I sewed the front closure with a separating zipper, and used thin bungee cording and toggles that I already had. The cording is fed through eyelet grommets. The front pocket closes with a small black plastic zipper I already had.
 
 
I designed this piece to fill a void in my wardrobe and I’ve worn it every day since finishing. It’s exactly my style down to all the notions I used. The subtle greenish tint of the charcoal color goes perfectly with what I usually wear, and the utility of the front pockets is everything I wanted. My phone fits perfectly in the zippered pocket—no more phone slipping out of my pocket while I work! Essential. I’ll wear it with literally everything I own.”
Twill Spotlight_Ruby
Sab made the button-down shirt from Zero Waste Patterns in Kobe – Cotton Twill – Ruby
“The Kobe Twill is the perfect medium weight fabric! I love that it holds its structure while still having good drape and isn’t too stiff. I made modifications to the button-down block from the Zero Waste Pattern book. I added details like an open back, patch pockets, and decorative top stitching. I used my chainstitch embroidery machine to add a monogram above the left pocket of my shirt! The garment isn’t my typical style, but I made it my own by cropping it and adding pink top stitching and embroidery for more of a feminine touch. This was my first time using a zero waste pattern and it was a challenge, but I trusted the process and was so happy with the final result! All of the details brought it together and I can’t wait to wear it as part of my everyday wardrobe.”
Twill Spotlight_Sab
“I made the Studio Tunic, with fitting adjustments for short stature and highly asymmetric shoulders. In most of the places calling for topstitching, I hand stitched with a contrasting cotton perle size 8 in a pick stitch. It’s a little bit of a departure from my usual style, a little cuter than what I usually go for. It’s pretty versatile in that the tunic is like a work apron and can be worn over pants, skirts, a top, or a dress (I have a dress in the works using the Style Arc Trinnie Dress and Extension Pack). I think I can wear this pretty much anywhere depending on how it is styled, except for something formal. I loved that the pattern called for French seams throughout. The inside is as lovely as the outside, a definite plus in my book! And for anyone scared of French seams, the pattern includes clear instructions. The Kobe twill was the perfect weight for French seams. The colors are vibrant, it is very easy to sew with and manipulate, and this weight can be either relatively structured or relatively unstructured.”
Twill Spotlight_Vicki
Ventana Cotton Twill is the heaviest of the three fabrics at 7.9oz per square yard / 270 GSM. It is perfect for pants, jackets, skirts, structured dresses, bags, aprons, home dec, and more.
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“I didn’t make any modifications except for choosing a vintage belt buckle instead of D-rings. My measurements put me at a 1X, but when I made my muslin it was too large, so I sized down for my Ventana version. I made bar tacks for the belt loops in a contrast thread color, which was fun! I used my Jean-a-ma-jig hump jumper a lot when making the bag because there were some really thick areas—I think the bag could have been made out of a lighter weight fabric. Also I used my invisible zipper foot for the side seam zipper. I love skirts and I used to wear long, pleated skirts all the time! I was excited about this pattern when it came out, and wanted to try the short version before going long. This gave me a chance to find my size and do something a little more fun! I got a little lost in the sauce for one of the bag-sewing steps, so I watched Friday Pattern Company’s sew-along tutorial. It was really helpful!”
Twill Spotlight_Anna
“This pattern can be worn two ways and is typically a longer tunic with sleeves. The suggested fabric types for this pattern were light and airy fabrics that would provide a nice drape. Of course this meant that I would have to experiment and do it in something heavier. LOL. To be honest, the modifications made were because I was not liking how the garment was coming out. We’ve all been there.
 

Issue 1: I should have sized up. The armhole sat very tightly and was difficult to get in and out of. Resolution: I left the side seams open and added an extension where the armhole met. Omitted the sleeves.

Issue 2: The length was not to my liking. Resolution: Shorten the length.

The other modification was not informed by any issue, but aesthetics. Because I was using a much heavier fabric than suggested, I wanted to make the two ways that one could wear the garment drastically different from one another. I converted the V-Neck to a deep-V with a single button closure, so that when worn front-facing it resembles a vest. When worn back-facing it creates an open-back top. It’s a bit different for me. The statement button I used has a mixture of both gold and silver… which is a bit much for me. The color on the other hand is great, and will definitely work with various pieces in my closet. Overall it’s a bit different, but layering it with other things will help it feel more “me.” Midway through, this project seemed to not be going the way I planned, but I was able to pivot and turn it into something that I think I’ll enjoy with a little more time. I might go back and topstitch the darts.”

Twill Spotlight_Craig
“I loved the weight of the fabric, it’s perfect for pants. I used the Free Range Slacks pattern and cropped them about 5 inches. I also painted most of the pants using textile paint—I wanted to create a monochromatic wardrobe for myself. I love these pants! Ivory is a color I’ve never wanted to wear but I think I’m going to start including it in my wardrobe. My inspiration for this project was transition, changing from one state to another—metamorphosis.”
Twill Spotlight_Eden
“Ventana Twill has a nice, substantial denim-like weight, and is easy to cut out and sew! I made The Assembly Line Apron Dress, and used a Japanese cotton print for the big apron pockets. At the last minute I decided to use it to make a matching Cashmerette Montrose Top. I didn’t use any special techniques on this project, but I kind of regret not using contrasting topstitching thread on the apron. It’s not my usual style, but it suits the domestic goddess aspect of my persona. I’ll definitely wear it to work, and will wear the top everywhere with jeans. One bit of advice: make sure the straps fit snugly so they won’t fall off your shoulders. There’s no turning back once those bad boys are topstitched into place!”
Twill Spotlight_Hulda

Kristen made the Noodlehead Pepin Tote with Ventana – Cotton Twill – Ice Blue, Ventana – Cotton Twill – Smoky Brown, and Kobe – Cotton Twill – Celery.
“I used Ventana Twill for the outside, and Kobe Twill for the lining. I like how sturdy the ventana is—it’s great for a structured bag, but still soft. I used a walking foot on my machine for the quilting and a specialty ruler called The HuRTy—it was created by Latifah Saafir to help make precise triangle patchwork easy. This is totally my style and I will wear this bag everywhere and anytime! I find this to be a practical size tote, not too big, and the zip top was a must-have for me. I discovered the patchwork to be a little bit fussy and seams bulky when working with the heavier Ventana Twill. If I was to do this again, I would probably use the Kobe or even Fineline to achieve more precise points with a little less bulk. That said, it can be done with the thicker fabric and for anyone considering quilting with the twills, I highly recommend pressing all seams open—it helped a lot!”

kristen's pattern

Olivia made Merchant & Mills The September Coat in Ventana – Cotton Twill – Carmine
“I made The September Coat! The only mod was adding a hang loop. After finishing my coat, I realized this was needed since it is a long heavy jacket that can’t easily hang on a loop without one. To anyone interested in making this coat, I highly suggest you add this! I referred to my Readers Digest Complete Guide to Sewing a good amount for this project. Merchant & Mills’ instructions were lacking in some parts, so I was very grateful to be able to reference certain techniques. For the lining there was a bit of hand sewing that needed to be done, and I referred to the book to refresh my memory on those techniques. Even though hand sewing can take a long time, this project reminded me how neat it can look in the end product! I don’t have any long, oversized coats in my wardrobe, so yes I’d say it’s a departure from my usual style! It’s a great jacket for the weather here in the Bay Area where the cold temperatures don’t usually get below 60 or 50 degrees. It’s also a great layering piece since it’s so oversized! I like the color because I think it will coordinate well with other items in my wardrobe. I can see myself wearing it all year round.”

Twill Spotlight_Olivia

Sicilia made Merchant & Mills The Eve Trousers in Ventana – Cotton Twill – Brown
“I think Ventana Twill is a great fabric! I like that it doesn’t seem to wrinkle much, and is a really nice midweight. I like things to feel comfy and lived in without being too drapey, and I think this fabric really hits the mark for a comfortable amount of structure. I used the Merchant and Mills Eve trousers pattern. I shortened the rise by about 1.5 inches before cutting out the fabric and then shortened the leg by about 3 inches after I finished sewing. These pants are totally my normal style! I basically live in slightly baggy, straight leg, high waisted pants—so these fit right in. I plan on wearing them a lot, to work and anywhere else, and imagine they would go with most t-shirts or with a button up if I wanted a more formal look. I don’t feel like I’m the most creative when it comes to styling, but I’m happy to have another solid pair of pants! I’m pretty happy with how these came out, but if I made them again I would definitely go slower when inserting the zipper. This was the first time I made pants that weren’t elastic waist, and given that I think they came out great, but I wish the zipper was a bit neater. I honestly found the pattern instructions to be pretty confusing, and was glad I found a sew along on Youtube.”

Twill Spotlight_Sicilia

Sew Inspiring

A huge thank you to the Stonemountain & Daughter staff for participating in the challenge, sewing some amazing cotton twill garments, and sharing their thoughts about their creations! Have you made something special out of our cotton twills, or another Robert Kaufman fabric we carry? We’d love to see it! Email us  [email protected] or tag us #stonemountainfabric on Instagram to share!